Triumph Tina/T10

Forum member Neil (AKA billy192) has started his own blog following the restoration of his old Tina. Keep up to date with his progress at: 

http://triumphtina.blogspot.co.uk/

Required Tools for stripping a Triumph Tina or T10

While the workshop manual lists loads of special tools that are required to strip the engine I found that 99% of the tools required are all standard workshop tools. I decent set of spanners and a socket set (imperial obviously) will get you most of the way there.

The only point at which I had difficulty was taking off the front and rear pulleys. For these I needed a large 3 legged puller (left)and and smaller 2 leg puller (right). However, nothing is ever that simple! I had to modify the 2 leg pullers arms to get a decent hold.

Front Hub Puller

Triumph Pt No 61-5033 – (Thanks to Paul “babrat61″ for this image)

Triumph T10 fly wheel extractor (61-5040)

I recently managed to source an original Triumph T10 (& Tina) fly wheel extractor 61-5040 as pictured here. I managed, with some difficulty to remove my fly wheel without this but managed to break one of the fragile fins in the process (I glued it back on as good a new). While these tools are as rare as hens teeth, if you do manage to get one you will find engine disassembly a lot easier.

Wheel Hubs – Optional

The wheel hub caps were an optional extra for both the Tina and T10. They are, like most things Tina or T10 related, rather difficult to get hold of. However, it might be possible to re-appropriate or make some hubcaps based on the following dimensions.

Speedo head – is the drive seized? – By forum member Babrat61

If your scooter has been stored and unused for many years , as most out there appear to be, it is worth checking the square internal drive to the speedo is not seized. Fitting a new speedo cable without doing this may result in an immediate failure of the cable inner!

I have accumulated 6 speedos and all were seized!. The internal pinion and worm gear are nylon and are lubricated during manufacture with a white grease. This grease solidifies with age and ‘gums up’ the drive spindle (which the small square section inner of the cable slots into) and the worm and pinion gears.

To unseize the mechanism I recommend converting a small square needle file, by grinding the square down to suit the internal cable size, clamp the needle file in the vice horizontally, slide the speedo head drive spigot onto the modified needle file and the gently rotate the speedo in a clockwise direction. It will be quite stiff at first, but as more rotations are made you will notice a gradual freeing up of the drive and see a deflection of the speedo face needle and after enough revolutions an increase in the odometer. It may be necessary to rotate the speedo up to an indicated 1 mile on the odometer to ensure a super free mechanism.

Some freeing spray may be directed into the square drive of the head, hoping that some leeching of the liquid will occur to help in the freeing up process.

Once you can rotate the needle file freely in your hand and see the speedo needle bounce up to a speed and back again, plus a gradual increase in the odometer reading, it is safe to say that the speedo is functioning satisfactorily.

Under no circumstances try to disassemble the speedo, as the front chrome bezel is crimped on at manufacture and is unlikely to come off without a fight and it certaily won’t go back on again with any degree of satisfaction.

Front Pulley

The front pulley is an automatic centrifugal clutch that drives the rear pulley via the belt. The front pulley is similar in design to other centrifugal clutch systems, in that it has a numbers of weights placed between two plates which when rotating push the plates apart and thus engage the clutch.

I have taken some pictures of the reassembly of my front pulley to show what goes where as it is a complicated layering of parts that make up the clutch.

1. onto the bare spindle goes a small spring, the cog (shown) and, importantly, two semi-circular retaining wedges. Be very careful not to lose these wedges!!!!

2. Next goes the back plate and two washers as shown

3. Then the bearing

4. Followed by this central thingy-me-bob (yes, that is the technical name)

5. Over the top of this goes the clutch back plate and with the weights placed

6. The front clutch place goes over this and the weights should all nestle into the clutch housing neatly. This is all held in place with a screw over the centre spindle.
Not shown here, but there should be 3 push springs slipped over the 3 protruding poles that will eventually hold your cotter pin.

7. Then the clutch cover (in this case i have sprayed mine a rather fetching shade of red) and fit 3 new cotter pins as shown.
Pushing the cover over the springs and placing the cotter pins is quite fiddly.