Triumph Tina/T10

Project Tina Update

Just a quick update, the painting is done and the rebuilding has started on my wife’s 1963 Tina. Triumph Owners Club registrar man was brilliant and after a lot of looking we found what was left of the frame number under the main spar near the cylinder head just where the rust is the worst! anyway have registered the original number so if I can get it through an MOT happy days!
Have had to install a brake light for the MOT which is fitted to the rear hub brake lever anyone interested I can post some pics.
Will post when its all complete.
Bye for now.
JohnO

My1963 Tina project

Ii collected my Tina a couple of weeks ago from Telford, she is actually the second Tina in my life after my wife of nearly 30 years! So now I have one I can hit with a hammer, curse and kick! an investment for my mental health.
The bike had a log booking showing 5 owners in 4 years (not well liked I suspect for all the reasons I have read) and then in 1967 she was but in a garage till now.
However having done a quick assessment turns out this bike is pretty original, complete and unmolested (cannot say the same for the wife!).
The engine was seized but that turned out was just the piston and the rest of the engine is in good shape, clock says 4400 miles and I think that is about right.
Rebuilt the top end – found replacement rings from link on this site, checked I had a spark, rigged up temporary tank as the original is a bit rusty inside and will need some work, crossed my fingers and gave it kick (actually a lot of kicks) and eventually success a sweet running engine.
Then to try CV transmission, up the revs and off we go a smooth as you like, have not looked inside drive and assume its original with ball bearings but so far so good,
Just wanted to share that here are good bikes out there.
Now to deal with all that rust! Will let you know how I get on.
Bye for now.
JohnO

Tina Factory 1962 1

Tina Assembly 1962 2

Probably the best Triumph Tina in the world – for sale!

Triumph Tina for sale Contact – Ken Heydon:- ken.heydon@tiscali.co.uk

 

Triumph T10 replacement carb

Hi just thought id let you know I have replaced my worn out amal carb and replaced with a carburettor for a yamaha pw80 . This carb was bought new for under 18.00 delivered from ebay . The stub fitting is same 24 mm when you remove plastic sleave . Runs better too .

Tina/T10 Swingarm pivot system

It’s not immediately apparent that there are 3 elements to this pivot system.

1 – Bush – Tight fit to swingarm

2 – Sleeve – Sliding fit inside bush

3 – Bolt – sloppy fit inside sleeve.

The sleeve is fractionally longer than the bush so that when the bolt is tightened the lugs on the frame trap the sleeve allowing it to pivot inside the bush.

Any slackness in the nut causes the pivot action to transfer to the bolt itself wearing it, the ends of the sleeve and the holes in the frame.

When reassembling it may be necessary to fettle the swing arm to allow the clamping action.

The sleeve has a grease transfer hole which is not in the centre so make sure it’s the right way round to align with the grease hole in the bolt.

 

Tina/T10 Kickstart system

The Tina/T10 Kickstart system is not a particularly well designed or robust piece of engineering and slipping, leading to being unable to start the engine, is a recurring theme which is made even worse because it’s impossible to do a bump start.

When figuring out how to make things work it’s necessary to understand the relationship of the many parts as they all need to work in perfect harmony and also that wear is cumulative.

In no particular order :-

Kickstart shaft and it’s bush in the swinging arm

Kickstart quadrant teeth

Kickstart ratchet – outer teeth and drive teeth

Kickstart ratchet bush and associated mainshaft wear. Probably the major culprit as any wear here allows the ratchet to cam out of contact with the inner drive pulley.

Inner drive pulley teeth

Main bearing wear

Wear in many of the components can be rapid as they collect a lot of dirt in normal use and constant dismantling and cleaning is needed to keep it all working.

Sometimes missed is a blocked mainshaft oilway which will lead to rapid wear of the centrifugal mechanism.

Incorrect reassembly of the components onto the mainshaft will contribute to lack of lubrication and rapid wear. (See associated post – Drive Pulley Reassembly and Adjustment)

Whatever you do don’t be tempted to take a file to any of the ratchet teeth – you will make things worse!

Attention to a good fit of the shafts, bushes and main bearings are the solution and may require the services of professional engineers.

In restoring any old machinery it always happens that the parts most needed are in the shortest supply.

I guess that very many kickstart ratchets and drive pulleys were replaced during the production years and that’s the reason they are now virtually unobtainable. What’s worse, with the ratchet gear I doubt whether any precision engineers would take on the job of tooling up and replicating it.

Good luck! 



 

Brightspark Magnetos EasyCap Condenser Replacement.

That electrolytic capacitor has to go – it’s the real weak point of any ignition system. First, read the following info on Brightspark Magnetos website:- http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/universal/index.htm

Next, buy the 220nF Universal EasyCap.

Now follow the photos:- Remove the horrible electrolytic can and throw it away. Fettle the EasyCap to shape, chamfer the edges, countersink the fixing hole, solder on a connecting wire and tag.

Fixing screw must be isolated from the top layer of the EasyCap. Instead of a countersink and insulating washer you can just remove the copper layer round the fixing hole.  

Lightly abrade the printed grid off the bottom. Assemble finished EasyCap – not forgetting to put a fibre insulating washer under the head of the fixing screw. Loctite the screw thread. Job Done – Easy.    

Tina / T10 Drive Pulley Reassembly Sequence and Adjustment – revised

1 – Plain steel washer against bare shaft – 22mm O/D, 18.5mm I/D, 50 thou. thick. Yes – A consequence of using Metric bearings !

2 – Spring.

3 – Kickstart pinion and 2 collets. Check for wear of the (well oiled) bronze bush and/or shaft. Sloppy fit allows the ratchet to cam out and slip.

4 – Inner pulley, tight against the shoulder of the shaft.

5 – Idle bearing race. A fully sealed bearing is a good upgrade of the original.

6 – Fit the belt, easing the rear pulley halves apart to allow it to slip over the bearing.

7 – Dust cover, lip towards outer end of shaft.

8 – Pulley boss, line up the oil feed hole in the shaft with the hole in the pulley boss. Recessed end towards outer end of shaft.

9 – Adjustment shims – 1″ O/D, 15 and 30 thou. thick, as necessary.

10 – Assemble lubricated weights on the outer pulley half (with felt ring soaked in SAE 90 oil) with one curved face touching the outer pulley ramps and the large flat face uppermost so that they bear directly on the phosphor bronze ramps of the reaction plate (see photo below).

Positioning weights on the T10 front pulley

Positioning weights on the T10 front pulley

Slide on the reaction plate with the domed stud in the (oiled) phosphor bronze bush. Slide assembly onto shaft making sure that NONE of the 3 oil holes (by each ramp) in the outer pulley line up with the oil hole in the pulley boss.

11 – Spring washer and nut. Lightly tighten.

12 – Push and pull  the outer pulley half. There should be approx 1/16″ to 1/8″ of movement before it contacts the belt. Adjust by adding or subtracting adjustment shims as in “9”

13 – Fully tighten nut when clearance is correct. Guide 16 – 20 ft lbs torque.

14 – Note whether there are any washers spot welded to the inside of the cover. If there are none, slip a 1/16″ washer over each stud before the springs.

15 – Fit three springs and the cover. Secure with “R” pins rather than split pins – it makes disassembly easier and doesn’t damage paint work. If using split pins cut to length and just splay the ends. Don’t fold them right round the stud.

16 – Test – Under full throttle the belt should only ride up to 1/8″ from the top of the pulley. If the belt runs appreciably below 1/8″ from the top of the pulley, remove the three 1/16″ washers.

17 – As the belt wears it will ride lower on the pulley and may need further adjustment.

Filed as a Word doc at:-  http://triumphscooters.co.uk/downloads/?did=165

 

 

Copyright: www.triumphscooters.com